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Shifting Gears: Neelkamal Thakur has been driving trucks on the treacherous roads of Himachal Pradesh for the past many years | Photo: Ashwani Sharma Shifting Gears: Neelkamal Thakur has been driving trucks on the treacherous roads of Himachal Pradesh for the past many years | Photo: Ashwani Sharma

It was getting dark. Neelkamal Thakur, then 34joganh0, had a choice to make. The regular driver, after helping with the loading of the truck—registered under her name—abruptly refused to drive it to the desired location. It had happened before. This time, there was a deadline to meet. What Thakur did that evening changed the track of her life.

She decided to drive the cement-loaded truck from UltraTech’s plant in Baga in Solan district of Himachal Pradesh and safely deliver the consignment 102 km away to a location in the industrial belt of Nalagarh. She was nervous at first because covering such a long route at night on treacherous Himachal roads is quite a task—especially because the drive involved an uphill climb, followed by a long stretch downhill.

Providing her moral support was her teenaged nephew, Pankaj. They set off. The year was 2016. It was the erstwhile Manali-Chandigarh highway, unlike the four-lane highway now. “For a solo female heavy truck driver on her first trip, it was a dangerous route. But something inside me told me to go ahead. I don’t have words to express that feeling,” says Thakur.

She had no clear idea as to how brake pressure is applied in heavy vehicles. All she had driven until then was a small car that her family owned. It was all about trial and error. “At a particular check-point uphill, the vehicle started rolling back. I told Pankaj to quickly get down and place a stone at the rear wheel. It was dark and he was young, but he bravely supported me,” she recalls.

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The journey became a milestone of her life and she earned a new designation—the first female truck driver from Himachal to operate a commercial heavy load carrier.

“It felt really good. The next morning, when we reached Nalagarh to unload, I was greeted warmly. A large crowd had gathered to cheer me for completing the gruelling drive. When I told my mother upon returning home, she had tears in her eyes and she blessed me,” says Thakur, now 43.

A native of Piplughat, which falls under the Arki sub-division of Solan, Thakur says she does not believe at times how her life has changed completely. At 29, she was managing her house and taking care of her five-year-old son. The death of her husband—a transporter—in a road accident changed it all. While she was recovering from the grief, came another blow.

The finance company, that had given a loan to her husband to buy two trucks, forcibly seized the vehicles. She had no means to support her family that included an elderly mother and a paralysed father. Thakur fought back and managed to get the trucks back after negotiating the loan repayments and also took over the small business her husband had established.

“I was raised in a typical rural set-up. Women didn’t drive. Driving a loaded truck in the mountains, especially at night, was a real challenge that I took upon myself. I’m not sure from where I got the strength that day but I took the wheel to navigate through the obstacles in my life,” says Thakur.

Her intentions were right, but after venturing on that route, she had to break many social boundaries and stereotypes. The truck drivers hired by her would take her for granted. They would arrive late or refuse to load and drive the trucks. Some even returned the keys and quit without any notice. “They had no sympathy for me. Hence, I decided to drive that night. I wanted to let them know that I wasn’t dependent on them,” she says.

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She has not looked back since. Driving day and night to all sorts of destinations—including remote places like Kinnaur,66br Una, Sirmaur, Dharamshala and Lahaul-Spiti—has become routine for her. Extreme cold or heat, unfavourable weather conditions like snowfall, thunderstorms and landslides or breakdowns and mechanical snags—nothing deters her.

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She gives credit to the management of the cement company for boosting her confidence. They have framed special protocols which include providing her a separate rest room equipped with a proper washroom and ensuring her privacy at the plant premises. Guidelines have also been issued to all male drivers to treat her with the respect that she deserves.

She admits that the profession she has entered into is not easy or safe for women. Many people don’t treat truck drivers kindly. Alcohol consumption is very common among drivers. Drug abuse is rampant too. Any woman will hesitate to be a part of this community voluntarily. Setting clear boundaries has helped her so far. Adapting has helped too. “I used to wear salwar-suits with dupattas. One day, while trying to exit from the truck, my dupatta got stuck in the door. It could have strangled me. After that incident, I switched to wearing tracksuits and jeans for comfort and safety,” she says.

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Ask her what has changed for good over the years, she says the availability of restrooms. Initially, it was a big challenge. “Fortunately, many restaurants and roadside eateries now provide separate toilet and washroom facilities for women. Petrol stations also have designated spaces for women so do the hotels and dhabas lined up on the highways,” she says.

Such positive changes have motivated other women. Now, there are two dozen female drivers in Himachal. Seema Thakur, the first female Volvo driver, Neetu Pandit, 22, who drives a huge 35-tonne, 16-tyre trailer, and truck drivers Neha Thakur and Tamanna Dhiman are among them.

“Today, when we have our daughters flying planes and fighter jets, Neelkamal has opened the doors for other women to take up driving of commercial heavy vehicles. She is a shining example of women embarking on new journeys, from surface to skies,” says Ram Kishan, the former president of a truck union formed by those who lost their land to cement plants. “Her becoming the first woman truck driver has indeed made the driver community in Himachal proud. Now, apart from taxi/cab drivers and bus drivers, we also have truck drivers in the mountain state. Our sisters and daughters are attempting to break societal stereotypes.”

Driving on long and lonely highways can get boring and stressful. “I listen to music while driving. That helps,” says Thakur. She also uses social media and shares glimpses of her journeys to different destinations. What message does she have for young women? “Accept the challenges of life. Never give up hope. Things do change,” she says.

Ashwani Sharma is a journalist with over 30 years of experience in reporting and analysis. He is based out of Shimla

This article is a part of Outlook's March 11joganh0, 2025 issue 'Women at work', which explores the experiences of women in roles traditionally occupied by men. It appeared in print as 'Chak De Phatte!’.